Audemars Piguet, the Swiss haute horlogerie manufacturer that is constantly researching materials, has launched its first alluvial gold watch. This new 18K gold alloy (a cross between white and rose gold) reflects light delicately, creating multiple expressions depending on the angle and light of the light. The watchmaker chose this new precious metal to create the 41 mm Royal Oak Skeleton Flying Tourbillon watch. In keeping with the case and bracelet, Caliber 2972’s skeletonized bridges and main plate are also coated with sand gold, while the multi-layered structure is distributed on both sides of the watch. This new electroplating color creates a subtle contrast with the rhodium-colored components inside the movement, creating a unique three-dimensional effect. The Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Skeleton Watch is the perfect combination of complex technology and modern design.
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Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 052 Skull
A number of skull watches have been launched recently. The Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 052 Skull watch was launched at SIHH in 2012 and is the most complex watch to date.
The four bridges that connect the movement to the case and serve as the dial are arranged in a “skull” pattern, inspired by the flag of a pirate ship. The upper and lower “jaws” hold the ruby of the tourbillon frame, and the back of the “jaws” is also the central bridge of the movement. Functions include hours, minutes and tourbillon seconds. Skeleton hour and minute hands. The hour, minute hands and scales are treated with luminous light.
The Richard Mille RM 052 movement is a hand-wound tourbillon set with 19 jewels, Glucydur balance with four adjustment screws, vibration frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz), Elinvar by Nivarox balance spring and Kif Elastor KE shockproof Protection and Power Reserve 48 hours power reserve. Finishing includes micro-blasted milled sections, hand-beveled surfaces, and drawn or polished exterior surfaces.
The three-part tonneau-shaped titanium case is assembled by 20 grade 5 titanium spline screws and measures 42.7mm x 50mm. The upper flange is carbon fiber and the lower flange is grade 5 titanium with DLC coating. The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating on the front and back. The tripartite case requires 255 machining operations, including 86 stamping operations. The case features titanium spline screws for greater torque control and features a torque-limiting crown, an additional safety feature to prevent accidental over-winding.
Two O-ring seals ensure water resistance up to 50 metres. Black rubber strap.
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